Meaning ‘Great God’ in Hindi, this quiet little town, located two hours south of Indore, hugs the northern banks of the Narmada River and is littered with temples and forts. From the impressive Ahilyabai Temple, built in honour of the famed warrior Queen, to the still family-owned Maheshwar Fort. With its strong handloom weaving tradition, kept alive by the reigning royal family, the Holkars, and supported by the Rehwa Society, it is a most informing visit for those interested in India’s textile heritage. Best visited between October and the beginning of March.